1968 Volvo 1800S

FUEL-As useful as it is to make our cars run, it is extremely destructive when it is allowed to stay in the system for even a short time.  Fuel stabilizer is helpful, but does not assure your system is protected, as these pictures clearly show.

The original fuel tank pictured here.  Fuel was left in the tank since when the car was last on the road in 1984.  28 years of Texas heat turned the fuel to

varnish and then to hard scaly material shown here in the tank...

...and carburetor float bowls.

Other fuel related components like the float sender...

 

...and filler cap and neck...

...and fuel sender flange on the tank were damaged or ruined.  All to frequently we see these components overlooked or not dealt with adequately in restoration work.

The permanent solution is the 100% epoxy lined fuel tank we offer.  It will never rust or corrode and it's guaranteed for life.  The new fuel sender finishes this part of the fuel system.

Wheels before reconditioning...

...and after.

Remanufactured wheels are blasted, trued, and repainted the correct original color.

 

Good wheels can make or break a restoration.  First because these wheels are so narrow (4 1/2") the bead breaker on tire machines (the old gates 20/20) contemporary with these cars could easily go too far and distort the rim relative to its center.  This condition is not repairable.  Consequently, many of these wheels are unbalanceable and if used will cause mucho vibration when driving.  So, at Alan Auto, we spin balance all wheels with no tires on them to visually check for both hop and run out.  Run out-or axial out of round-can be corrected to some extent by remanufacturing.

 

The acceptable limit, for us, on remanufactured wheels is only .002".  Anything greater will be difficult to balance and consequently be scrapped.  It has taken us some trouble to close in on the original Volvo wheel color code as all the codes were obsoleted when paint was mandated to be "lead-free".  These codes were simply not reformulated for modern lead-free paint, so all color matching is done by trial and error.  Over time we have established correct paint color formulas for cars we paint.

 

This picture shows an original panel and....

this one, fresh matching color.

Original style steel exhaust. 

This bad design usually hits the body and...

... chafes on the emergency brake cable causing it to sever...

...and rust out.

This beautifully designed and constructed stainless steel exhaust system is an exact fit...

...replacement which will never have to be replaced.

The best job requires the best people-people whose experience is their most formidable tool.  One example of this is perhaps the most critical part of the drive train, the driveshaft.  It transmits the power from the engine to the wheels.  It is unlike most other driveshafts in its day in that it has 3 u-joints and a center bearing.  Any malfunctioning element of the assembly can cause it to vibrate and make the car unpleasant to operate.

These almost miniature universal joints have no tolerance for error and are difficult to remove and replace without distorting the soft driveshaft flanges...

...so much so that we keep a supply of used units which are preferable to wasting time trying to replace a u-joint effectively.

However, our experience has taught us that these driveshafts, like many classic Volvo components, are designed to never need to have the u-joints replaced if one knows the trick.

 The trick being a tiny set screw on each joint which can be removed and replaced with a zirque fitting, lubed, and refitted with the set screw.  After lubing, the u-joint is good to go for another couple of years before it needs another squirt of grease.

Regreased original u-joint ready for further service.

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